The Boat
Riviera cruise - Jane Austen on the Seine from Paris to Normandy. All-inclusive. Not a premium cabin. But no need for that extra space when you are out and about most of the time. A busy cruise with trips every day - occasional half days on deck watching the river bank go by. The map shows the winding nature of the river, plenty of bridges, modern mostly, but still regular ferries, chalk cliffs on the bank, some small boats, and plenty of large cargo boats, always with a car on the back deck. Gravel and sand, Every village had a Notre Dame. Cheese a plenty - the blue brie was outstanding.
The map shows all the visits, either from the boat directly or catching a coach.
Here we are having dinner or lunch. Views of the deck.
Two villages on opposite banks. Dominated by Chateau Gaillard, built by Richard the Lionheart in 1196 to protect his Duchy of Normandy, particularly Rouen, from the French King. Changed hands a few times during Hundred Years War, but remained French from 1449. Richard 'was was born in England, where he spent his childhood; before becoming king, however, he lived most of his adult life in the Duchy of Aquitaine, in the southwest of France. Following his accession, he spent very little time, perhaps as little as six months, in England. Most of his reign was on Crusade, in captivity, or actively defending his lands in France.' (wiki), 'The Hundred Years' War was a conflict in the Middle Ages. During the war, five generations of kings from two rival dynasties fought for the throne of France, which was then the dominant kingdom in Western Europe.'(wiki)
Impressive building achievement. The chalk cliffs are visible.
Rouen
The Cathedral is the main attraction and massive - how did they do it in 700 years? There are other buildings (eg. justice), the half-timbered ones are notable, as is the golden clock, ' an astronomical clock, horologium, or orlojis a clock with special mechanisms and dials to display astronomical information, such as the relative positions of the Sun, Moon, zodiacal constellations, and sometimes major planets (wiki)'.
The Vikings (Rollo) started the Rouen settlement. Among his descendants, after the Battle of Hastings, were the Dukes of Normandy and the British Royal Family. Rollo and Richard the Lionheart's tombs are in the cathedral. Only Richard's heart. Other bits are elsewhere like Anjou.
Joan of Arc was burnt at the stake here (1431), commemorated by a garden with monument. She said she had a vision claiming she must recover France from English domination. The Cathedral's cast-iron spire, visible from the boat, is covered for repairs and soon after our return to England it went up in a fire.
We went to a road side cafe for drinks and Carl, our decking man, rang to arrange a repair session. Being in France didn't phase him one bit.
Honfleur
Fishing village, preserved as a result of no bombing in WW2. Great market including the colourful cider stall. The church is all wood, carved by axemen of the naval yards. The pillars that hold the church roof up are solid oak tree trunks. Many painters here, most famous being the impressionist Boudin, who tutored Monet.
Bayeur
Tapestry actually embroidery, depicting th Battle of Hastings and the Norman Conquest. 70 metres long and 29 cm high. Fresh colours even today. It cannot be photographed but there are copies.
Bayeux was the first town to be liberated in the Battle of Normandy, following the June 1944 invasion (Operation Overlord). 4648 graves, 3935 British and 466 Germans. Most were killed during the invasion itself. Beautifully tended by Commonwealth War Graves Commission.
Arromanches, Gold beach, British Memorial
Arromanches coastline showing what is left of the 146 prefabricated concrete caissons from 2 temporary Mulberry artificial harbours. Floated across from England to land men and equipment for the invasion (Operation Overlord - June 6th 1944). Le Havre and Cherbourg were not available - in German hands. Built by Royal Engineers. Sunk forming 2 semi-circular breakwaters behind which piers and bridges could deliver the supplies. 600,000 tons of concrete, 33 piers/jetties and 10 miles of roadway. Size of Dover. Colossal effort. 2.5 million men, 500,000 vehicles and 4 million tons of supplies landed during first 6 months of invasion.
Incredible museum in Arromanches with terrific audio-visual exhibits.
The British Normandy Memorial is a war memorial near the village of Ver-Sur-Mer in Normandy, overlooking Gold Beach. It was unveiled on 6 June 2021, the 77th anniversary of D-Day, and it is dedicated to soldiers who died under British command during the landings' (wiki). Nicholas Witchell was one of the planning group. Over 22000 names are carved in stone on the memorial.
'For Your Tomorrow,' 'Standing in the shadows of Giants' - 1,475 giant silhouettes, in honour of the servicemen who fell on D-Day itself. Across wild flower meadows overlooking the sea. Beautiful and moving.
Monet's House and Garden
Small house, full of paintings, large garden. Monet lived here from 1883 until his death in 1926. His favourite colour was yellow, so that's the colour of the kitchen. He had an oriental period. The garden inspired his impressionist paintings, especially lilies and Japanese bridge.
because I'm smiling
